Orry-Kelly

Casablanca

We Believe History is

Storytelling

1920s-1930s

The first moving pictures catapulted costume into the public eye when scripts quickly exceeded early actors’ abilities to dress themselves. As audiences grew, theatres sprang up, and movies soared in complexity, costume design for film became a new occupation. In black and white celluloid, costume designer Travis Banton forged signature looks for icons such as Marlene Dietrich and Louise Brooks. In 1927, the introduction of sound ushered in the glamour of Hollywood’s golden age. The joy of musicals like Fred Astaire and Ginger Rodgers’ Top Hat, by Bernard Newman, captivated Depression Era audiences, while in 1939 saw Gilbert Adrian’s costumes for The Wizard of Oz realized in dazzling technicolor. Hollywood’s impact was felt world-wide.

Adrian is most well-known for his designs in The Wizard of Oz including the ruby slippers

1939

Adrian  Costume Designer

The Wizard of Oz
1939

Adrian  Costume Designer

The Wizard of Oz
1935

Bernard Newman Costume Designer

Top Hat
1935

Bernard Newman Costume Designer

Top Hat
1935

Bernard Newman Costume Designer

Top Hat
1935

Bernard Newman Costume Designer

Top Hat
1940

Walter PlunkettCostume Designer

Gone with the Wind
1940

Walter PlunkettCostume Designer

Gone with the Wind
1940

Walter PlunkettCostume Designer

Gone with the Wind

“I don’t think it was my best work or even the biggest thing I ever did… But that picture, of course, will go on forever, and that green dress, because it makes a story point, is probably the most famous costume in the history of motion pictures.” –Walter Plunkett

Play
1930-1936

Travis BantonCostume Designer

Marlene Dietrich
1930-1936

Travis BantonCostume Designer

Marlene Dietrich
1930-1936

Travis BantonCostume Designer

Marlene Dietrich
1930-1936

Travis BantonCostume Designer

Marlene Dietrich
1930-1936

Travis BantonCostume Designer

Marlene Dietrich
1934

Howard GreerCostume Designer

Thirty Day Princess
1939

Walter PlunkettCostume Designer

Gone with the Wind
1939

Walter PlunkettCostume Designer

Gone with the Wind
1939

Walter PlunkettCostume Designer

Tom Sawyer
1937

Robert KallochCostume Designer

The Awful Truth
1939

AdrianCostume Designer

The Women
1939

Bernard NewmanCostume Designer

Follow the Fleet
1939

Bernard NewmanCostume Designer

Follow the Fleet
1940

Irene LentzCostume Designer

Seven Sinners
1940

Irene LentzCostume Designer

Seven Sinners

1940s-1950s

World War II inspired escapism in audiences. The decade opened with Walter Plunkett’s civil war drama Gone with the Wind, and Adrian’s costume collaboration with Joan Crawford minted the strong-shouldered silhouette of the decade. Edward Manson Stevenson designed the legendary movie Citizen Kane and It’s A Wonderful Life. Casablanca, by Orry-Kelly, epitomized Film Noir. In contrast, Fifties postwar affluence produced images like Marilyn Monroe standing over a subway grate dressed in William Travilla’s billowing white halter. Moss Mabry shunned glamour for gritty realism in Rebel Without A Cause, appealing to the newest demographic, the teenager. The Hollywood studio system dissolved and in 1953 The Costume Designers Guild Local 892 was organized.

The Golden Age of Hollywood
Grandeur
1939

Orry Kelly   Costume Designer

 Casablanca
1939

Orry Kelly   Costume Designer

 Casablanca
1939

Orry Kelly   Costume Designer

 Casablanca
1939

Orry Kelly   Costume Designer

 Casablanca
1953

Edith HeadCostume Designer

Roman Holiday

CDG Founded
in 1953

by a group of 30 passionate motion picture Costume Designers who found strength in joining forces, responding to the changing needs of the motion picture industry.

“I would rather go to Coney Island and open up a Hot Dog stand than dress that woman again!”
– Orry-Kelly on Marilyn Monroe

Play
1953

Travilla  Costume Designer

Gentleman Prefer Blondes
1941, 1947

Edward Manson StevensonCostume Designer

Citizen Kane, It's A Wonderful Life
1941, 1947

Edward Manson StevensonCostume Designer

Citizen Kane, It's A Wonderful Life
1947

Edith HeadCostume Designer

My Favorite Brunet
1948

Dorothy JeakinsCostume Designer

Elizebeth Taylor - Award
1950

DonfeldCostume Designer

Academy Award Show
1950

Helen RoseCostume Designer

Arlene Dahl
1950

Irene SharaffCostume Designer

In Studio
1953

Travilla Costume Designer

Gentleman Prefer Blondes
1953

Travilla Costume Designer

Gentleman Prefer Blondes
1953

Travilla Costume Designer

Gentleman Prefer Blondes
1955

Moss MabryCostume Designer

Rebel Without A Cause
1955

Moss MabryCostume Designer

Rebel Without A Cause
1959

Orry KellyCostume Designer

Some Like It Hot

1960s-1970s

The Space Race set an optimistic tone, as television gained influence. Seminal science-fiction franchises were established, from Star Trek on NBC, designed by Robert Fletcher, to Star Wars, by John Mollo. Film glamour, eclipsed by realism in theatres, was revived in TV variety acts like the Cher and Carol Burnett Shows, both by Bob Mackie and Ret Turner. In contrast, sitcoms like The Jeffersons and All in the Family designed by Rita Riggs told stories about relatable characters. The Seventies saw scripts with darker themes. Movies like Annie Hall by Ruth Morley, Shaft by Joe Aulisi, and Bonnie and Clyde by Theadora Van Runkle revolutionized fashion. Milena Canonero’s costume design for Barry Lyndon and Piero Tosi’s for The Leopard became benchmarks of historical accuracy.

“That was the thing I pulled out that day and put on him that sold him as an old man”
–Rita Riggs

Play
Bold
1967

Theadora Van Runkle  Costume Designer

Bonnie and Clyde
1967

Theadora Van Runkle  Costume Designer

Bonnie and Clyde
1971-1975

Rita RiggsCostume Designer

TV Shows
1971-1975

Rita RiggsCostume Designer

TV Shows
1971-1975

Rita RiggsCostume Designer

TV Shows
1974

Anthea Sylbert  Costume Designer

China Town
1974

Anthea Sylbert  Costume Designer

China Town

“That’s how it started quite by accident”
– Anthea Sylbert

1963

Piero TosiCostume Designer

The Leopard
1963

Piero TosiCostume Designer

The Leopard
1963

Piero TosiCostume Designer

The Leopard
1963

Piero TosiCostume Designer

The Leopard
1971

Joe AulisiCostume Designer

Shaft
1971

Joe AulisiCostume Designer

Shaft
1973

Bob MackieCostume Designer

Cher
1973

Bob MackieCostume Designer

Cher
1975

May RouthCostume Designer

David Bowie: The Man that Fell to Earth
1975

May RouthCostume Designer

David Bowie: The Man that Fell to Earth
1975

Milena CanoneroCostume Designer

Barry Lyndon
1975

Milena CanoneroCostume Designer

Barry Lyndon
1975

Milena CanoneroCostume Designer

Barry Lyndon
1975

Milena CanoneroCostume Designer

Barry Lyndon
1975

Milena CanoneroCostume Designer

Barry Lyndon
1975

Robert FletcherCostume Designer

Star Trek
1975

Robert FletcherCostume Designer

Star Trek
1977,1979

Ruth MorleyCostume Designer

Annie Hall, Kramer Vs. Kramer
1977,1979

Ruth MorleyCostume Designer

Annie Hall, Kramer Vs. Kramer
1980

Robert TurturiceCostume Designer

In Studio
1980

Robert TurturiceCostume Designer

In Studio

1980s-1990s

1980s, Blockbuster films married star power to special effects and ushered in a Hollywood Renaissance, while VHS created a new revenue stream for studios. Teenagers flocked to theatres for E.T. by costume designer Deborah Lyn Scott, Raiders of the Lost Arc by Deborah Nadoolman, and the flurry of John Hughes coming-of-age stories irresistibly rendered by Marilyn Vance. Movies like Wall Street by Ellen Mirojnick and Flashdance by Michael Kaplan joined a myriad of sitcoms, and dramas like Dynasty by Nolan Miller, to become synonymous with the decade. Kaplan also teamed up with Charles Knode to create the groundbreaking looks in Bladerunner. Music Videos became a powerful medium. Among them were Marlene Stewart’s designs for Madonna, which dominated popular culture.

1990s, reaction to big-budget studio offerings, Nineties indie directors brought back the auteur’s singular vision. Quentin Tarantino collaborated with Betsy Heiman on Pulp Fiction; David Lynch worked with Patricia Norris on Twin Peaks, and Tim Burton teamed up with Colleen Atwood to create unforgettable characters like Edward Scissorhands. However, no film was more significant than Titanic, the period love story designed by Deborah Lyn Scott, beloved by all audiences. Also vital was the rise of Black Cinema trailblazed by John Singleton and Spike Lee in concert with Ruth E. Carter and others. Kym Barret transformed the superhero into the antihero in the Matrix. TV comedy was invigorated by Debra McGuire in Friends and Michelle Cole In Living Color, and the DVD and Netflix paved the road for the future.

“I always try to empower women with my work I want to also communicate the fun of life and the fun of creation”

–Mona May

Iconic
1995

Mona May  Costume Designer

Clueless
1995

Mona May  Costume Designer

Clueless
1994,2000

Betsy HeimannCostume Designer

Almost Famous-Pulp Fiction
1994,2000

Betsy HeimannCostume Designer

Almost Famous-Pulp Fiction

“As a costume designer, you’re working to put the director’s vision together for people to see through clothes It was a1970‘s autobiographical film”
–Betsy Heimann

1981

Deborah NadoolmanCostume Designer

Raiders of the Lost Ark
1981

Deborah NadoolmanCostume Designer

Raiders of the Lost Ark
Play

“That was Harrison’s no1hat that was the holy grail It was a tingling hair-on-the-back-of-the-head moment
–Deborah Nadoolman

1981

Nolan MillerCostume Designer

Dynasty
1982

Micheal Kaplan & Charles KnodeCostume Designer

Blade Runner
1982

Micheal Kaplan & Charles KnodeCostume Designer

Blade Runner
1982

Micheal Kaplan & Charles KnodeCostume Designer

Blade Runner
1982

Micheal Kaplan & Charles KnodeCostume Designer

Blade Runner
1982

Deborah Lyn ScottCostume Designer

E.T
1982

Deborah Lyn ScottCostume Designer

E.T
1982

Deborah Lyn ScottCostume Designer

E.T
1982

Deborah Lyn ScottCostume Designer

E.T
1986

Marilyn VanceCostume Designer

Pretty in Pink
1986

Marilyn VanceCostume Designer

Pretty in Pink
1986

Marilyn VanceCostume Designer

Pretty in Pink
1986

Marilyn VanceCostume Designer

Pretty in Pink
1986

Marilyn VanceCostume Designer

Pretty in Pink
1986

Marilyn VanceCostume Designer

Pretty in Pink
1987

Ellen MirojnickCostume Designer

Wall Street
1987

Ellen MirojnickCostume Designer

Wall Street
1990

Colleen AtwoodCostume Designer

Edward Scissorhands
1990

Colleen AtwoodCostume Designer

Edward Scissorhands
1990

Colleen AtwoodCostume Designer

Edward Scissorhands
1990

Colleen AtwoodCostume Designer

Edward Scissorhands
1990

Colleen AtwoodCostume Designer

Edward Scissorhands
1990

Patricia NorrisCostume Designer

Twin Peaks
1990

Patricia NorrisCostume Designer

Twin Peaks
1990

Patricia NorrisCostume Designer

Twin Peaks
1990

Patricia NorrisCostume Designer

Twin Peaks
1990

Michelle ColeCostume Designer

In Living Color
1990

Michelle ColeCostume Designer

In Living Color
1990

Michelle ColeCostume Designer

In Living Color
1990

Michelle ColeCostume Designer

In Living Color
1992

Ruth E. CarterCostume Designer

Malcom X
1992

Ruth E. CarterCostume Designer

Malcom X
1992

Ruth E. CarterCostume Designer

Malcom X
1992

Ellen MirojnickCostume Designer

Basic Instinct
1992

Ellen MirojnickCostume Designer

Basic Instinct
1994

Debra McguireCostume Designer

Friends
1994

Debra McguireCostume Designer

Friends
1994

Debra McguireCostume Designer

Friends
1997

Deborah Lynn ScottCostume Designer

Titanic
1997

Deborah Lynn ScottCostume Designer

Titanic
1997

Deborah Lynn ScottCostume Designer

Titanic
1997

Deborah Lynn ScottCostume Designer

Titanic
1997

Deborah Lynn ScottCostume Designer

Titanic
1997

Deborah Lynn ScottCostume Designer

Titanic
1999

Michael KaplanCostume Illustration

Fight Club
1999

Michael KaplanCostume Illustration

Fight Club
1999

Kym BarrettCostume Designer

The Matrix
1999

Kym BarrettCostume Designer

The Matrix

2000 - Present

The millennium brought perceived and real disasters, from Y2K to tsunamis, terrorism, and economic collapse. Globalization was transformative in all areas and social media shifted the conversation. The Cell brought Eiko Ishioka’s striking, visionary fantasy to broader audiences. Judianna Makovsky designed two icons, Harry Potter and the Sorcerer’s Stone in 2001, which made the young wizard’s look instantly recognizable, and the first Hunger Games, a decade later which married high fashion to science fiction. Janie Bryant almost singlehandedly brought back men’s slim-cut suits and made period clothing relevant on television in Mad Men. In Desperate Housewives by Catherine  Adair and Ugly Betty by Eduardo Castro, style captivated audiences. The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo was given an edgy authenticity by Trish Summerville. In 2009, Avatar‘s intricate tribal costumes designed by Deborah Lynn Scott and Mayes C. Rubeo were filmed in stereoscopic 3D, breaking box office records.

 

Video on Demand (VOD) and smartphones fueled television’s transition to digital, closing the gap between the large and small screens. Underscoring this seachange were television shows like Boardwalk Empire by John A. Dunn and Lisa Padovani, and Game of Thrones by Michelle Clapton which expanded the scope of episodic TV. Costumes by Ane Crabtree in The Handmaid’s Tale and Sharen Davis in Watchmen inspired wide-spread social activism. Meanwhile, Allyson Fanger gave an older generation the license to embrace fashion in Grace and Frankie. 2018 saw Ruth E. Carter honored with the first costume Oscar for a black woman, with Black Panther. The Star Wars and Star Trek franchises were revitalized on television in The Mandalorian by Shawna Trpcic and Star Trek: Discovery by Gersha Phillips, and in theatres, the trilogy from The Force Awakens, the Last Jedi, and The Rise of Skywalker by Michael Kaplan elaborated on the series with characteristic bravura.

Queens should always have armor
–Ruth E Carter

Play
2018

Ruth E. CarterCostume Designer

Black Panther
2018

Ruth E. CarterCostume Designer

Black Panther
2018

Ruth E. CarterCostume Designer

Black Panther
2018

Ruth E. CarterCostume Designer

Black Panther
2018

Ruth E. CarterCostume Designer

Black Panther
2018

Ruth E. CarterCostume Designer

Black Panther

The three major races each had their own color palette for the costumes as well as the aesthetic of the set designs
–Daniel Orlandi

2007

Alexandra Byrne  Costume Designer

Elizabeth: The Golden Age
2007

Alexandra Byrne  Costume Designer

Elizabeth: The Golden Age
2007

Alexandra Byrne  Costume Designer

Elizabeth: The Golden Age
2019

Daniel Orlandi Costume Designer

Ford V Ferrari
2019

Daniel Orlandi Costume Designer

Ford V Ferrari
2020

Rita McGhee  Costume Designer

P-Valley
2020

Rita McGhee  Costume Designer

P-Valley
2020

Rita McGhee  Costume Designer

P-Valley
2020

Rita McGhee  Costume Designer

P-Valley

A long time ago I  took a pole dancing class and I was dizzy just walking around the pole
–Rita McGhee

Fearless
2000

Cindy EvansCostume Designer

Momento
2000

Cindy EvansCostume Designer

Momento
2000

Cindy EvansCostume Designer

Momento
2004

Melissa TothCostume Designer

Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Mind
2004

Melissa TothCostume Designer

Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Mind
2004

Melissa TothCostume Designer

Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Mind
2004

Melissa TothCostume Designer

Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Mind
2005

Marit AllenCostume Designer

Brokeback Mountian
2005

Marit AllenCostume Designer

Brokeback Mountian
2005

Marit AllenCostume Designer

Brokeback Mountian
2005

Marit AllenCostume Designer

Brokeback Mountian
2007

Mary Claire HannanCostume Designer

Into The Wild
2007

Mary Claire HannanCostume Designer

Into The Wild
2007

Mary Claire HannanCostume Designer

Into The Wild
2007

Janie BryantCostume Designer

Mad Men
2007

Janie BryantCostume Designer

Mad Men
2007

Janie BryantCostume Designer

Mad Men
2007

Janie BryantCostume Designer

Mad Men
2007

Janie BryantCostume Designer

Mad Men
2007

Janie BryantCostume Designer

Mad Men
2007

Mark BridgesCostume Designer

There Will Be Blood
2007

Mark BridgesCostume Designer

There Will Be Blood
2007

Mark BridgesCostume Designer

There Will Be Blood
2007

Mark BridgesCostume Designer

There Will Be Blood
2008

Suttirat Anne LarlarbCostume Designer

Slumdog Millionaire
2013

Ellen MirojnickCostume Designer

Behind The Candelabra
2013

Ellen MirojnickCostume Designer

Behind The Candelabra
2013

Ellen MirojnickCostume Designer

Behind The Candelabra
2013

Ellen MirojnickCostume Designer

Behind The Candelabra
2013

Patricia NorrisCostume Designer

12 Years A Slave
2013

Patricia NorrisCostume Designer

12 Years A Slave
2013

Patricia NorrisCostume Designer

12 Years A Slave
2013

Patricia NorrisCostume Designer

12 Years A Slave
2013

Patricia NorrisCostume Designer

12 Years A Slave
2017

Catherine AdairCostume Designer

The Son
2017

Catherine AdairCostume Designer

The Son
2017

Catherine AdairCostume Designer

The Son
2017

Catherine AdairCostume Designer

The Son
2017

Catherine AdairCostume Designer

The Son
2017

Catherine AdairCostume Designer

The Son
2018

Analucia McGortyCostume Designer

Pose
2018

Analucia McGortyCostume Designer

Pose
2020

Nancy SteinerCostume Designer

Promising Young Woman
2020

Nancy SteinerCostume Designer

Promising Young Woman
2020

Nancy SteinerCostume Designer

Promising Young Woman
2020

Paulo NiedduCostume Designer

United States Vs. Billie Holiday
2020

Susanna SongCostume Designer

Minari
2020

Susanna SongCostume Designer

Minari
2020

Susanna SongCostume Designer

Minari
2021

Charlese Antoinette JonesCostume Designer

Judas And The Black Messiah
2021

Charlese Antoinette JonesCostume Designer

Judas And The Black Messiah
2021

Charlese Antoinette JonesCostume Designer

Judas And The Black Messiah